GTI International Programs Assistant Dylan Thompson visited Kosovo for the International Summer Academy – Peace building in post-conflict areas – Diplomacy, Leadership and Negotiation certificate program.
Most of my time was spent in the capital of Pristina, but I also had the chance to visit Mitrovica and Prizren. The certificate program I participated in lasted for two weeks (I even celebrated my birthday in Kosovo!) and there were multiple lectures a day given by scholars, politicians, and non-governmental organization employees about Kosovo and the Balkan region.
Trip Highlights
Going into Kosovo I knew a few things: First, that the country is predominantly Muslim and its history is rife with geopolitical and ethnic struggle. The latter is very important to know when visiting Kosovo as the country officially declared independence in 2008, making it one of the newest countries in the world. While I am not going to talk much about the history of Kosovo, I will say as an American I felt extremely welcomed there. When people would hear my accent and I’d tell them where I am from, their already welcoming hospitality changed to be even more welcoming. The sites in the city were its many mosques, a beautiful orthodox church, a legendary hero of Albanian history, and a statue of Bill Clinton?
Most of my time spent in Kosovo was in the capital Pristina. I stayed at a hotel about a ten-minute taxi ride from downtown which cost roughly 3-5 euros depending on where you are going. First time I went downtown was just to walk around. We explored the city on our own stumbling into coffee shops and bars, enjoying what the city had to offer. Surprisingly, Pristina is very lively at night. Restaurants stay open late and bars are packed, which is something I was pleasantly surprised by. I won’t get to the food just yet, but man was the food amazing. The hotel provided most of the food I ate, but when I went out to have dinner it was immaculate. Navigating was not hard but neither was it easy, mostly everyone I ran into spoke enough English to complete a transaction or give directions. Only once did I get into a cab with someone who spoke no English, but living in the modern age you can use a language or translation app to talk to each other so I could get to my destination.
Kosovo does not have as many public transportation options as other European countries. Taxis, rental car, or tour buses will be your main source of transportation during your stay in Kosovo. The good news is that the country is very small. Any of the cities or locations that I mention can be reached within a couple of hours depending on where you are in the country. When you leave Pristina, the likelihood of finding people who speak English diminishes as well, so have those translation apps handy or a guide with you to translate. Albanian is an incredibly unique language with it being the only language that survived on its side of the Indo-European tree. But you may encounter Serbian speakers there as well, especially in the northern part of Kosovo. There are many other languages and ethnic groups in Kosovo as it is an incredibly diverse country. But, every server at a restaurant spoke enough English for me to be comfortable ordering without pulling out my phone.
Even though 90% of the country is Muslim, I was surprised to find alcoholic beverages are regularly available everywhere. This is a perfect example of how religions change and are shaped around the pre-existing culture; a long time before Islam was introduced into the region. There is a beverage unique to the Albanian population called Rakija. It is similar to wine but higher on the content and pretty fruity too. Finding a place that serves it actually proved to be somewhat difficult, but when we did we had an awesome time.
Mitrovica and Prizren
I was not in Mitrovica for long, no more than a couple hours. It was to showcase the division between Serbians and Kosovar Albanians in the country. The city is split by a bridge, dividing the Serbian side from the Albanian side and at the end of the bridge was a NATO checkpoint guarded by Italian soldiers. When you’re on either side of the bridge the tense feeling was gone, but on the bridge you can feel the weight of the situation. For a trip or vacation, it’s not a pleasant feeling, but an important one as it opens your eyes to reality. The city on both sides was gorgeous and worth the visit. I gained a new perspective that day, which I have carried with me ever since.
Prizren… How I miss this city. When I go back to Kosovo, Prizren will be at the top of my list. This city had a lot of firsts for me: I stepped foot into a mosque for the first time, had Turkish coffee for the first time, hiked up a steep hill to the ruins of a castle, and had a traditional Turkish meal that was shared between the friends I had made. I spent time relaxing on the public benches by the river that flowed to the city, petting the stray cats (which are a common sight), and eating the street food. The city’s cobblestone streets filled me with glee and it felt like I was in a time capsule, similar to other feelings you would in many European cities. If you manage to make that climb up to the ruined castle, you will find an absolutely stunning view of the city in every direction.
Cuisine
The food in Kosovo was amazing, every restaurant had delicious food. If you like pies, well there is a variety of pies in Kosovo, such as Flija, a pancakey, doughy pie that tastes amazing and excellent to share with the table. That’s the other thing; sharing is caring. Many places you will eat at do not serve dishes made for just one person, but for everyone to have a bite of! Albanian cuisine uses a lot of stuffed vegetables: spinach pie (which often comes with meat); Sarma, a spring roll type of a food stuffed with cabbage or grape leaves; and of course beet stew, a regional staple. My favorite dish I had, hands down, was Tave Kosi. This dish is in a sac, something used to traditionally make pies, and contains a piece of lamb (mine had bone) placed on top of a bed of warm, garlicky rice. I seriously need to learn how to make such a dish as it was incredible.
When we went into the mountains, we saw the Mirusha Waterfalls, a beautiful waterfall nested in a small valley at the base of a mountain. Outside of that national park there is a restaurant called Mirusha Fish. What is so special about this place is that they make the fish to order. They tanks where they raise the fish, catch them fresh, and then prepare and cook them immediately. Hands down, it was one of the best fish I have ever tasted. There is even a small resort there where you could spend the night to enjoy the park to the fullest. So if you like fish and nature, that is definitely the place to be.
So, if you are ever in the region give Kosovo a try! I had no idea what to expect when I first traveled there: the only thing I had was the history of the region, so getting to meet and talk to locals made me feel welcomed in a country with which I was culturally and geographically unfamiliar. The program I took part in really helped me understand and enjoy the culture and everything the country has to offer to the fullest. You will learn a lot, feel a lot, and eat a lot of delicious food during your stay here. Make sure you visit some museums while you are there, it will help you gain a fuller experience about the region and the people who call this place home.
Recommendations
To Do
- Pristina – Capital city of Kosovo, lots to do, see, and eat.
- Prizren – Second largest city in Kosovo. The top of the city has the ruins of a castle.
- Peja – Fourth largest city in Kosovo, the city is known for the various caves found around and in the city.
- Mitrovica – City split in-half with only a bridge connecting the two sides. As mentioned earlier there is a weight to it, but I believe it is an important stop in your journey through Kosovo.
- Gjakova – A city with beautiful streets, surrounded by Kosovo’s gorgeous nature.
- The National University Library of Kosovo “Pjetër Bogdani” – A library built between 1990-1999, its strange architecture is sure to catch your eye. Looks like something out of a science fiction movie
- Gadima Cave – Beautiful limestone cave found in the village of Gadime which was found in 1966 accidentally by a farmer.
- Bear Sanctuary – located 20 kilometers from Pristina, this park serves as a sanctuary for rescued bears. Open to the public, you might get to see a bear up close! (behind a fence of course)
- Germia Park – A park with cafes, areas to go have a picnic, and a massive outdoor swimming pool.
- Mirusha Waterfalls – The falls in this national park have created canyons and caves, a beautiful park and not a very long hike to see the main falls.
- Serbian Orthodox Monastery Gračanica – A monastery built in the early 1300s, visitors are welcome!
- Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa – Famous cathedral in Pristina near downtown, there are many stray dogs near the cathedral
- Sinan Pasha Mosque – Famous mosque located in Prizren built in 1615 by the Ottomans. Beautiful mosque if you are able to enter
To Eat
- Baba Ganoush Meze – Located in Pristina, you will find a lot of Mediterranean food, especially food from Jordan, Turkey, and Lebanon in Kosovo, like this place. It was a fantastic dinner and their hummus is made in house!
- Liburnia – A traditional Albanian meal found in an alley in Pristina, I mentioned above the dish Tave Kosi, this is where I first had it! The atmosphere in this restaurant is also earthy and welcoming.
- Villa Gërmia – Located just outside of Pristina in a park, its calm vibes offering a traditional breakfast is sure to put you at ease!
- Bagolina – Located in Pristina, this restaurant is open from morning until night and offers a wide variety of dishes.
- Gagi restaurant – Another excellent Mediterranean restaurant located near the heart of downtown Pristina that is family owned and operated.
- Konak Nargile – Cash-only Turkish restaurant located in Prizren had our bellies full by the end with a traditional Turkish meal. I recommend having those translator apps ready or have someone who can speak the language because the language barrier exists, but once you get past it, you are bound for a delicious meal with a scenic view.
- Fehmi Agani – A street in Pristina with a lot of options for bars, very walkable.
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